Cape Wrath Trail

Day 3: Morvich - River Ling NG946329

I started the day with a shower, taking full advantage of the facilities before starting off again. The goal for today would have been Strathcarron, but given the aforementioned decision I decided instead to head for a wild camp somewhere on the River Ling, a walk of about 11 - 12 miles. The route would initially follow the A87 about a mile past Invernate, I would then take a minor road before taking the trek up Coir Dhuinnid.

I’d decided to take this route after finding mention of it on another blog. The original route of course, passes by the Falls of Glomach. I’ve walked this section in the past and had a few near misses in terms of falls (it was in snow in fairness!) and so it wasn’t a place I was going to mess with again, not with the best part of 25Kg on my back anyway!

The initial road walk wasn’t unpleasant and was an easy enough plod. It was made easier still by the finding of a fairly well stocked garage along the way. A nice opportunity for a pastry or two and a few energy drinks…I needed them!

[Coire Dhuinnid ]

They didn’t help too much though unfortunately. I was still suffering and the sun was out again today in full force. The walk up Coir Dhuinnid is a solid track for most of the way, but it was a tough one given the way I was feeling. There’s a good 1000ft or so of sharp climbs before heading up to the Bealach at Mam Coire Diomhneid. I took a rest before attempting the final climb and was already wishing the day had finished.

The climb up to Bealach didn’t seem too much more difficult than previous few miles. There’s a track of sorts up to the Bealach, though it’s nothing more than a feint line through the reeds and grasses. The Bealach itself offered some wonderful views, but the ground isn’t great and the clegs were upon me so I didn’t hang around too long.

[Mam Coire Doimhneid ]

From here I descended toward Camas-luinie. The walk isn’t too bad, though the path marked on the OS very feint and you’re left to make your own way down for the most part. I’d clearly lost a little direction though and ended walking through a field and climbing a barbed wire fence before reaching the road to Killilan. I think I’d ended up taking a path between the two marked on the map.

On reaching the road the temperature was unbelievable. I’d never expected this much heat in the Highlands. I was shattered and still sweating by the bucket load. I’d hoped that I would be able to get camped not too far after Nonach Lodge, but there are very few options here. I found myself walking nearly another 2 mile before finding somewhere suitable.

[Wild camp in Glen Ling ]

By the time I did camp it was late afternoon, but the sun was still scorching. I couldn’t find relief from the sheer heat. I stripped, soaked a towel in water, lay it over me and then fell asleep for an hour or so. I awoke a little cooler and certainly a little more refreshed…until I found a tic embedded in my leg! After a swift removal I checked through my maps and still had no intention of making Cape Wrath, so decided that tomorrow I’d have an easier day just walking to Strathcarron. I knew I’d also be able to get myself a good hot meal there too